November 22 to 25- A weekend in Cuenca

Even though we love our life here at the beach, every now and again we love to visit the mountains. In our case, we love visiting Cuenca. When we first arrived in Ecuador in the fall of 2011, we spent three months living in this wonderful town. It is a beautiful world heritage city, clean, full of great restaurants, parks, museums, concerts, artisans’ and farmers’ markets. You will never get bored there.

So for a four day weekend in November, we made arrangements to visit our friends there. We met Cody and Michael originally from Denver during the fall of 2011 and quickly became good friends. As well, Donna and Larry originally from Texas became our friends when we spent February of 2013 in Cuenca on a home exchange. They lived down the hall from us at that time. Both couples had visited us in Salinas so now it was our turn to visit them.

Our good friend Eddie picked us up on Friday morning and away we went. Per usual the drive to Guayaquil was pretty boring, two and a half hours of 4 lane road through mostly scrub desert with some irrigated farmland. It has been a long dry season and this landscape was pretty gray. Closer to Guayaquil, it gets greener with more farms, villages and prettier scenery. And then the drive through Guayaquil itself- not for the faint of heart- LOL

From Guayaquil to Cuenca the scenery gets much more interesting. For the first hour we drove through what I call the bread basket of Ecuador. Farm after farm of mangos, sugar cane, cacao, rice, bananas etc. plus many many roadside stands selling all this and more wonderful fruit.

At the foot of the Cajas ( the Ecuador branch of the Andes mountain range) we stopped for lunch at Pio Pio, a chicken fast food place that also has a variety store and gas station and then onwards up to an elevation of 4100 meters. More on this later during our sunny drive home.

We arrived in Cuenca  midafternoon at Donna and Larry’s condo- our first stop. They live on the 16^th floor and have an incredible view over the city.

 

                                                     Many hummingbirds visit their flowers and feeder.

 

 During the day, the weather in Cuenca is really not any colder than on the beach in June to November. It is mostly sunny during the day and maybe rain or thunder showers in the late afternoon and evening. I wear the same clothes as I do in Salinas but do bring a pair of jeans for evenings.

For dinner that night, Donna cooked ribs and Michael and Cody came over and cooked stir-fried veggies.

 

                                  Plus Larry made us tasty? Margaritas- what a guy!

 

                              Great food and great conversations for these six good friends.

 

 

The next morning, the four of us took one of the many local buses to an Artisans’ market closer to downtown. I love the many markets in Cuenca and had been to this one before. There was so much stuff for sale- wooden kitchen utensils ( rolling pins, spoons, pestle & mortar), decorations, furniture, woven purses, pots & pans, Christmas decorations – you name it, it was available.

 I had bought many plants back in Salinas for my condo- my new indoor garden with the additional 15’ of hallway we had gained after our renovation. However, finding ceramic pots to plant these in at a reasonable price was impossible in Salinas. In this market, there was stall after stall of beautiful pots!  I could hardly make up my mind which to buy, so many pretty (and cheap $3 to $5 for large ceramic pots) to buy. I finally decided on 5 pots and bottoms plus a metal holder for elevation for 2 pots. These hardly all fit into the taxi we took back to the condo but I was delighted with our purchases.

That afternoon, Uwe and I took a walk to what we had read was a new Brew Pub in Cuenca. Those of you who are regular readers of my Blog know how much Uwe loves Brew Pubs and how few we have ever gone to in Ecuador. Most that we had read or heard about were either closed when we got there or had ceased to exist. We set off with high hopes!

We took a short walk down Grand Colombia past the circle at Las Americas and just past the intersection of Calle Unidas to the next street where our friends had told us it was. As we turned up this street, lo and behold, we saw the brew pub sign Aedean Brewery- whoohoo!

As we approached the door we saw the sign listing the hours. Yee gads, not again! Here it was shortly after noon and the brew pub did not open until 4PM. Foiled again! We couldn’t wait until then as the six of us were meeting that evening for dinner. Our luck with brew pubs was holding out per usual. Damm!

Our plan that evening was to meet at a Thai restaurant on Calle Larga. Since there are no Thai restaurants in Salinas, we were really looking forward to this. Larry, Donna, Uwe & I took a taxi         (the afternoon rains had come)  to meet Cody and Michael at the restaurant. Our luck continues because when we got there, the place was closed. Seemingly it was only open Monday to Friday- amazing, closed on a Saturday night. After a short walk down the street, we arrived at Todos Santos, a new restaurant that both couples had read about. This place was owned by the nuns and was located in the Todos Santos monastery  in the basement of the old church. The place was beautiful, stone staircases leading down to a beautiful dining room with large windows overlooking the river. What a find.

We all had an delicious dinner, many of us ordering the chef’s suggestions ( he spoke perfect English) accompanied by some excellent wine.

The next morning, we packed our suitcase and walked a few blocks down the street to change locations and spend that day and night at Cody and Michael’s condo. Their condo was also very beautiful with two lovely terraces and lots of plants.

 

 

For lunch that day, the six of us drove several kilometers south of Cuenca through the beautiful countryside to a Mexican restaurant El Agave at kilometer 18.5. The scenery along the way was awesome- dairy farms, hillsides and happy cows.

 

 

                            Eating our Mexican lunch accompanied, of course, with cervazas.

 

The rest of the day and evening was dedicated to eating, drinking and football back at Cody and Michael’s to the delight of our men with two of their favorite teams winning- yea Cardinals- and one ( poor Michael’s) losing in overtime.

Eddie picked us up early Monday morning for our long drive home. It was a beautiful sunny day and we were looking forward to a scenic drive through the Cajas.

                                                      The road leaving Cuenca heading home

 

                              Some of the pretty scenery- looks a bit like Switzerland

 

                                                          Going through the mountains